Cape Spear Lighthouse

Sept 15th, 2019/Cape Spear Lighthouse

Day's total/KM 19.5/elevation gain 800 meters
Total to date/KM 8097/Total elevation gain 48144 meters

 If I’m to believe the forecast, after today is rains for the next three days. Today its clear and cool, a good day for a ride! I made coffee, downed a couple of bran muffins, a tin of fruit cocktail and a banana. Prepped, then suited up for the final ride! It was an arm/leg sleeve morning. The hills of St John’s would soon have them off.
I clipped on my rear panniers, threw my leg over the bike, brought up the left peddle and slipped my foot in. I paused just before pushing off, I thought back to that early May afternoon. We were nearing port, Horseshoe Bay, the Mainland of British Columbia. Cool air rushed in as the ferry doors opened, I looked out, the Coastal Mountains were obscured in fog, it was overcast and drizzling. I felt nervous and excited all at the same time. I was the county kid, a greenhorn and, “Canada was calling me”.
  I refocus to present day, push down on the peddle and jump on, I was now a seasoned pro. I’d answered her call, I was off to Cape Spear, Canada’s most Easterly point and journey’s end. I smiled at the thought!

Cape Spear-Canada's most Easterly Point
"The Journey's Just Begun" 

Cape Spear, Newfoundland

Cape Spear, Newfoundland

The Atlantic Provinces Review

 As with many parts of Canada I would have liked to of spent more time. This of course was true of the Atlantic Provinces. The Confederation Trail on PEI was a definite highlight. This was the longest uninterrupted dedicated cycling path I rode on the entire tour. Grass covered with a single bared dirt strip either side the width of a car tire. You’ll experience PEI from a very different perspective, peaceful, shaded and uninterrupted by the passing of cars. I spent the first day in its entirety on trail with the exception of a brief grocery run. The second day brought me into Montague where the trail terminated. My time in Nova Scotia was brief and I’ll say the route was not pleasant, Hwy 104 was busy with Monday’s Labour Day traffic. It was the complete opposite of the previous days ride on PEI.
 In Antigonish I was met with heavy rains and a pending hurricane. Busing my way through to North Sydney was disappointing, some decisions aren’t easy, although necessary. 
 Newfoundland, with what little I saw it was unique, very different from the rest of Canada. In terms of weather it felt that it could be very unforgiving. The winds blew hard with little to no relief on the open landscape. It’s shorelines are rugged, exposed to the open Atlantic. St Johns, don’t underestimate its hills, there are plenty of them and they’re steep. It’s harbor, likely one of the most protected, can be seen from Signal Hill. The views of the city are also spectacular! The ships are unique, built to withstand the Atlantic seas, these are the brutes that service the oil rigs, their impressive. The Terry Fox Memorial, emotional without question. It should be situated in a more prominent location within the downtown of St Johns.

Part Two-Arm of Gold Campground to St Johns

Argentia, Newfoundland

Remnants from the abandoned Military Outpost
Argentia, Newfoundland

Newfoundland

Part One-Arm of Gold Campground to St Johns

Sept 11th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Sept 12th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground to Sunset RV Park, Argentia via Marine Atlantic Ferry

  This morning I woke to overcast skies, no rain yet, it was coming. I made breakfast in the barn then showered. It felt good to break camp once again. I took my time, I was well ahead of it, there was no rush.
  Once in North Sydney I did a quick tour of the marina, a halibut boat was unloading its catch. One last look at the fish boats then off to grab some lunch at Subway, ate one there and wrapped a traveler for tonight’s supper. Marine Atlantic Terminal was the next stop. The passed quickly and the call for boarding rang out over the loud speaker. I threw on my rain gear, swapped out my street shoes for clogs then peddled to the front of the line, it was raining pretty good. The signal to board was quick, thankfully so. I stowed the bike, with sleeping bag etc under arm I headed for the eighth floor. The seats reclined, somewhat like on an airplane. It was quiet, we were at the end of season. There a few fellow passengers in the room, all on the same page. None of us were willing to spend the $200 for a berth. I crashed out in the chair, then moved for the floor instead, it reminded me of the tent, I felt more at home. Not a bad sleep considering I had no Thermarest. I had read on the website they weren't allowed, or at least they didn’t want people crashing on the floor, no one bothered me.
  The sixteen hour journey passed surprisingly fast. I ate a great breakfast on board, should have been for the $21.00, ouch! Argentia was foggy, no rain at the moment but noticeably cooler. Not the best introduction to my eleventh Province! I stayed to plan riding a short distance to the Sunset RV Park, I pitched and setup. It had kind-of an industrial vibe, trailers lined up on gravel pads. An oil rig was being built near the ferry slip, the park was home to all the workers. Lorn, the camp attendant offered to take me into Placentia for groceries. When I returned I cooked and ate lunch in the camp kitchen, went for a short walk, showered, then the rains came. Tomorrow was suppose to be a better weather day, I wanted to ride.

Sept 13th, 2019/Sunset RV Park to Butter Pot Prov Park

Day's total/KM 97.7/elevation gain 911 meters
Total to date/KM 8012.9/Total elevation gain 46910 meters 

I've just passed the 8000 Kilometer mark!
  A later than usual start, I was waiting for the rains to abate. I was finally under way at around 9:30, and soon greeted by my old friend “head winds”, they were strong and persistent. I followed Hwy 100, it was well shouldered and in good condition. At the Junction I swung East along the TC. The Subway sign drew me in and I stopped for lunch. Lorn mentioned a highway closure, the server at Subway filled me in on the details. It was 1:30 PM when I pulled away from Subway. My initial plan was another 20 or so kilometers, the closure pushed me on, I had another 52kilometers to crank out before days end. The TC is divided, it had a good shoulder. 30 plus kilometers out from Subway I rode thru the closure point, I was well within time. They were updating a culvert, the detour by bike was not suppose to be a fun one. It was worth the extra effort avoiding it. I arrived at Butter Pot around 5 PM. They were calling for frost, it was already cooling down and so was I. 
  Camping was free, initially Paul, whom I’d met on the Argentia Boat unannounced passed me on the way in by car. He explained my story of cycling across the country to the park attendant and wanted to pre-pay my site. The attendant wasn't disagreed and insisted he pay instead.

Sept 14th, 2019/Butter Pot Prov Park to Pippy Park Campground

Day's total/KM 45.1/elevation gain 434 meters
Total to date/KM 8058/Total elevation gain 47344 meters

 Clear skies this morning and a little nippy, there was frost on the ground! It was a mini marathon just to get to the washrooms that had hot water at the campground and mostly uphill. I did dishes etc then back to camp to pack. A female moose and her young came crashing out of the bush in front of me on the way back. They were soon down the road then blazing their own trail. The TC was good all the way thru into St Johns. At Pippy Park Campground I chose to pitch in the tent field, it was a little cheaper and the slopped field was included for free. This was home now till the 15th, my last pitch.

Part Two-Arm of Gold Campground

Wind were now at 103 kilometers per hour!

Before Hurricane Dorian

After Hurricane Dorian

Part One-Arm of Gold Campground

Sept 6th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  I rode back into town for more groceries and lunch. I also dropped into the Marine Atlantic Ferry Terminal. Sunday’s sailing has been cancelled and all those that were booked on it are moved to Wednesday’s sailing, they also said they are not taking any bookings. There are at times perks when your on a bicycle, they called the reservation office and I was allowed to purchase my ticket for the Wednesday sailing. This will still allow for plenty of time to get to St Johns, deal with business and see some of the sights. I seam sealed the tent this afternoon, seem a little late for that. It was a blue sky day today and warm, that would soon change.

Sept 7th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  Today’s mission was to repair my Thermorest, funny how the simple things become entertaining. One of the buildings has a Jacuzzi, it's perfect for finding the leak. I made the repair, all was good, it was holding air until I sat on it. The glued pillowed perforations are giving away, when they do it develops leaks. I now have two more spots that are leaking. I bought it new for the trip and they’re not cheap, it's the four season model. Back to MEC on that one!
  The winds started to pick up early this morning, Hurricane Dorian was on route. By 3 PM the wind gusts of 85 kilometers per hour were being recorded on the weather app. I've re-located, I’m somewhat tucked under a gazebo out here in the field-I feel like a Hermit Crab that needs a bigger shell. I secured the tent as best I could, I used all the four tie outs. At this point the winds were coming from behind the gazebo which provided shelter, that would change.
  I went to bed around 10 PM, there were bands of rain passing through, winds at the moment were the bigger issue. The weather app was recording 100 kilometer plus gusts, it was getting noisy out there. I woke at around 1 AM, the winds had shifted direction as the storm moved through, they were now blowing directly on me with nothing to shelter. It was difficult to sleep with all the racket. The tent was bouncing about pretty good. I could feel the floor shifting under the Thermarest. I thought of Dorothy In the Wizard of Oz, she was in a house and hers flew, I was hoping mine wouldn’t.
At around 3 AM I heard a big “Pop” the tent lit up blue, it was quickly followed by the sound of current arcing.  Then another “Pop” and a flash of blue light, again the unmistakable sound of current shorting to ground. I was aware of the Hydro Lines, not above but a short distance away from the tent. I heard no trees breaking so I assumed the lines shorted against a still standing tree, I stayed put. The winds continued through the night and morning. Lots of debris on the ground, broken tree limbs, I could now clearly see the road and houses, my hedge was flattened and the trees got a haircut. The power was out, I assume last nights light show was the culprit. The winds continued for a better part of the day, we received little rain.

Sept 8th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

I stayed in the tent for most of the day, it was a long one. The wind slowly abated as the day went on. There’s a trailer on the property that serves up burgers, fries etc. It was up and running under generator power, I was in. I stealthed back to the tent with a big bag of fries, a cheese burger with real bacon, that was the highlight of the day.

Sept 9th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  I woke this morning to blue skies and calm winds. There was a couple of gals a few gazebo over that came in last night. They greeted me with a fresh cup of brewed coffee, how nice was that. We chatted while they packed for the boat to Argentia. They were on a two week holiday from Quebec. Their travel plans were also disrupted by the past storm.
I made a second cup once the girls were gone and you’ll never guess, oatmeal for breakfast! Yum! Yum!
I did a bit of house keeping, hauled everything out of the tent, cleaned the leaves and debris up from the tent floor, aired out the sleeping bag, hung a new air freshener up. Then I rode into town for lunch and a stop in at Canadian Tire, picked up a repair kit for my Thermarest. Time I got back the power was back on, I recharged all my devices, showered etc then made supper.

Sept 10th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Today was uneventful, I did laundry, showered and puttered about. I went for a walk around the campground, there’s an old rail bed over the hill that I walked along, then looped back to home base. I jumped on the bike and rode to Tim Horton's for coffee in the afternoon. I was getting bored!

Part Three-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Arm of Gold Campground, North Sydney

North Sydney

Hurricane Dorian Projected Path (I'm under the Blue Dot)

Part Two-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Sept 4th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

 Not having to get up and ride this morning I had a go at trying to sleep in. I woke at 7 AM to an overcast sky. I made breakfast then got ready to cycle into town, about 14 kilometer return trip. I ate lunch at Subway, had some banking to do, then groceries.
  I re-evaluated the weather, Hurricane Dorian, which will get downgraded to a tropical storm is suppose to arrive late Friday, heavy rains and winds are forecasted for Friday evening, Saturday and into Sunday morning. I stocked up on groceries, not wanting to bike into town in the middle of it. I lazed around this afternoon, showered and sorted a few things out. 
 The weather app is now beginning to issue warnings for Dorian. Given the uncertainty of how this storm will impact I’ve opted to take the boat from North Sydney to Argentia. The one scenario which would take me into Port aux Basque gives me little or not enough time to cross Newfoundland. Where as this one gives me too much time. It will however allow me to spend time in St Johns, sightseeing and getting organized to fly back home. It’s 135 kilometers from Argentia to St Johns, I’ll likely split that into two days.

Sept 5th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Not an early wake up this morning, no need. This not having to ride is out of the norm. I’ve gotten so use to waking up, prepping, then riding. I’m anxious to get going once again-this seems tougher than riding, I miss being on the road.

Confederation Trail, PEI

Confederation Trail, PEI

Part One-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Aug 30th, 2019/South Cove Camping and Golf to Yogi Bears Park

Day's total/KM 66/elevation gain 424 meters
Total to date/KM 7639/Total elevation gain 44234 meters

The skies looked promising this morning, still some dark patches. The rains have stopped for some time now, it looks like the storm was clearing. It was off to the laundry room to dry the sleeping bag, liner and a few other bits. As expected the tent leaked through the night, lucky for me the storm brought in warm air, I was wet but not cold. I made breakfast, packed up, I followed the coastal road which offered brief glimpses of the ocean. At first I wasn’t sure what I was looking at, it was the Confederation Bridge, that thing is huge. When I arrived I rode past the shuttle pick-up area to take some pics of the bridge. When I returned the shuttle was there waiting, l loaded the bike and gear and we were off, perfect timing. I grabbed some lunch in PEI then off to the campground.

Aug 31st, 2019/Yogi Bear Park to Camping and RV Park Rooms

Day's total/KM 76.1/elevation gain 470 meters
Total to date/KM 7715.1/Total elevation gain 44704 meters

 The campground wasn't far from the Confederation Bridge. I took a bit of a walk along the Confederations Trail, it was just steps from where I was pitched. I rode it thru and into Charlottetown where I briefly hopped off to grab some groceries for dinner then back on for the last 30 kilometers to the campground. The trail is in great condition, all hard packed gravel, no motorized vehicles allowed, bikes and walkers only. Parts of the trail are fast while some areas seemed slow, the heavy rains from this past storm may have softened the soil. The trail works it’s way through the back of farmlands has easy access to food etc in the small towns it passes near. Signage on the trail directs to accommodations etc. It was a nice way to experience PEI, this was the longest dedicated bike trail I’ve ridden. I thought I might see other cycle tourists, I only saw a handful of bikes and they weren't touring. The campground was private, just off the trail. A big open field with picnic tables, a cook area which I used, showers etc for $30,  it was a great place.

Sept 1st, 2019/Camping and RV Park Rooms to Northumberland Provincial Park

Day's total/KM 91.1/elevation gain 473 meters
Total to date/KM 7806.2/Total elevation gain 45177 meters

 I continued on the Confederation Trail into Montague where the trail terminates, I was sorry to leave it for the busy roads that took me into Northumberland. There was a noticeable difference in speed once I was back on solid pavement, making better time. I groceried up in Montague, ate some lunch then rode the last 30 kilometers. A bit hilly, I got spoiled the past day and a half on the rail bed. The campground overlooks the Northumberland Strait with nice sandy beaches, I took a walk in the evening. It would always seem that beach walks get the mind thinking. There haven't been many times during this trip that I've looked to far down the road, I generally stay in the now, one day at a time. I was nearing the end, soon I'd be in Newfoundland, I had mixed feelings.

Sept 2nd, 2019/Northumberland Provincial Park to Whidden Park Campgrounds

Day's total/KM 109/elevation gain 822 meters
Total to date/KM 7915.2Total elevation gain 45999 meters

 My plan was to catch the 9:30 AM ferry, as usual I woke early, passed on breakfast, packed up and covered the 4 kilometers to the terminal in short order. I had time for coffee and a sweet bun before boarding the 8:00 AM boat. Once on board with the bike stowed it was upstairs for some more breakfast. The crossing is just a little over an hour, $20.00 to cross and no fees for the shuttle across the Confederation Bridge, it was a good deal. From the ferry terminal on Nova Scotia, my ninth Provence! I followed the Three Brooks Road rounding the point avoiding the the 106. It was short lived, my approach to the 106 was a little dodgy. I ended up on an overpass with the highway below and no road access. It was down the embankment, then skirted along a marsh and onto the highway. I rode thru to Hwy 104, it took me into Antigonish. The shoulder was great on the 104 until it wasn't, it disappeared when the highway went to double lane. In all my travels thus far there’s typically a shoulder up the hills, here there wasn't. It was the Monday on the close of the Labour day weekend, lots of traffic. Can’t say it was a fun ride, quiet the contrast from riding the Confederation Trail the day before. The campground was situated in town, I opted to eat supper out, all the grocery stores were closed. Shoppers Drug Mart would have been a good choice which I checked out the day after, they have a reasonable selection of food. The rains were back forcing me to take cover inside the tent where I stayed the rest of the evening.

Sept 3rd, 2019/Whidden Park Campground to North Sydney

187 Kilometers by bus!

 My intent was to cycle two more days to North Sydney then take the ferry to Port Aux Basques. This morning I woke to strong winds and rain, the long range forecast called for more. I would soon be running into time issues, waiting out the weather wasn’t an option. Riding in the rain is one thing, in traffic is another particularly along a busy highway, it wasn’t going to happen.
 Tough decision, I’ve decided to bus myself and bike up to North Sydney and re-evaluate the weather from there. From the comfort of the bus I passed thru my tenth Province. The Arm of Gold Campground is about 7 kilometers from the bus drop. I arrived at 9:40 PM in North Sydney. I geared up, headlamp on and two safety flashers for the rear panniers. I soon arrived at the campground, they were expecting me. I was directed to the site, I setup, made some dinner and off to bed by 11:30 PM, it was a long day.