The Adventures of Grunkle-Final Thoughts!

  Make no mistake Canada's a big country, put a bicycle up against it and it just got bigger. I kept telling myself "It's like eating an Elephant, one bite at a time".
In planning I considered several routes across the country, in the end I connected the dots to places I wanted to see. The Coastal Mountains of BC, up and over the Duffy Lake Road, Mt Robson and the Icefield Parkway. I wanted to ride around the Caspe' and end the tour on Newfoundland at Cape Spear. I opted for roads less traveled, avoiding the main highways whenever I could. It wasn't meant to be a race. I'm not an Olympian, you don't have to be to do this. I was told tho that I had "grit", Ive never thought that of myself, "stubborn", defiantly.  A pinch of grit or stubbornness didn't hurt, in truth it was essential. I pushed myself and at times the bike but never to the point of injury. I recognized the need for rest-days and took them. There is no right or wrong way to tour across Canada, it's an adventure, it unfolds one day at a time. 
 From the comforts of home it's tough to know what to bring and what gets left behind. The "weight list" as I called it required some decision making. In looking back here's how it all worked out. I'll start with the camping gear. Since I'd planned on doing a lot of it I needed good equipment.
  
Camping equipment- The MSR Hubba Hubba was a disappointment, it leaked and eventually from continuous use the center pole broke. I seam sealed the second Hubba Hubba, it never leaked but the center pole was showing early signs of fatigue, it went back to MEC. My four season Thermarest was another item that got returned. It simply started to come unglued. The solar panel failed and was returned. Having both, a charge hub and panel would be ideal, the hubs are pricey tho. My stove which was an older GAZ worked great but the canisters are no longer available. It got swapped out with a new Jet Boil MightyMo, it takes the canisters with the threaded top. I would suggest carrying a spare at all times, they can also be difficult to find. An International stove would be the best choice, they'll burn just about anything. There were only a couple of items from the camping list I would have ejected, the GAZ stove was a given along with a bowl, to save on the dishes I ate straight from the pot. I would consider adding the following, a Solar Powered night light, a wind guard for the stove, collapsible pots (Sea to Summit), collapsible wash bucket, a few more cloths pegs and bag clips. A luxury item would be a light compact camp chair. In Ottawa I picked up a cargo net from MEC, it's small, I'd opt for a larger one, they can be real handy. Another item I used often was the Water Bladder. A water filter would be nice rather than the pills.  

Bike Gear-The Surly fared well, but there were break downs! If the bike wasn't new I would have gone through it front to back. A few lessons learned, I'd carry a spare chain with a quick release link and likely a chain tool. Cables are light, I would carry a couple of spares. Breaking spokes is also a concern, spares and the tools needed to replace them would be handy. Having drops with bar end shifters make it difficult to mount a suitable mirror. I'm swapping out the bars for flats for that reason as well I seldom if ever use the lowest position on the bars. Gearing, it's a personal thing, I've since swapped out the rear cassette from a 32 to a 42. I carried a rather heavy/large cable and lock. In most cases you're keeping the honest thief honest, if that makes sense. In other words where and when I left and locked the bike it would have been unlikely a pro bike thief would have come in with a cable cutter. I think there are other much lighter options that would have been as effective. I've read and spoke to many riders and opinions vary on tires. They are pricey however but I would recommend Schwalbe Marathon Plus, I had one flat in 8000 kilometers. 
  
Clothing-I didn't need the winter clothes often but was thankful for having them, I wouldn't leave the warm stuff behind. Merino Wool works exceptionally well, socks, underwear, T-shirts would be nice.
 I brought two bib shorts, could have likely gotten by with one, as well one cycling jersey. I'd no intention of cycling after dark although I did carry a headlamp, I was glad I did.

Safety-I could write pages on all the unfavorable interactions I had with motorists, "they were suppose to share the road with me".  What's the point in telling you, you'll have your own war stories to tell. My initial reaction, yelling obscenities along with hand gestures was inevitably going to get me in trouble, I would advise against that. Something I wished I had was a functional mirror. I would strongly suggest a good one, it would have helped knowing what was coming up from behind. A reflective high viz vest, I'd go for the mesh or straps, they're cooler, flashing rear lights are essential. I tried to avoid situations where a drivers vision might be impaired, rainy days or when the sun was low on the horizon. I rode a lot of shoulder-less roads. The worst was the TC coming around Lake Superior. I would consider either busing your bike or opt to drop into the US, re-entering Canada at Saulte St Marie.

A few stats-I spent 130 days on tour, 102 of those were on the saddle with an average of 79 kilometers a day with a total of 8097. I camped 127 nights, of those 2 were spent in a hostel in Quebec City and one night in a KOA camping cabin east of Thunder Bay, I stealth camped three nights and slept one night in  the rental van at the St Johns Airport.

Let's wrap this up-Boxing the bike was pretty straight forward. I went for a slightly wider one to accommodate extras, clothing, helmet, panniers and the handle bar bag. I packed the rest of my gear in a 102L plastic tote from Home Depot. Zip-ties and a roll of packing tape looked after the final touches at the airport once security was done. Air Canada charged $57.50 for the bike box. 
 I guess the burning question in my mind before the launch was "Could I do this", I think most riders feel the same. I took it one day at a time and never got ahead of myself. It's a brilliant was to see Canada, I have no regrets and hope to tour again in the near future. 
 To my handful of readers, I've no doubt found valuable information and inspiration reading Blobs or watching videos on Youtube of other adventure cyclists, I hope you've found some of that in reading this.

Best...Gruncle!

Cape Spear Lighthouse

Sept 15th, 2019/Cape Spear Lighthouse

Day's total/KM 19.5/elevation gain 800 meters
Total to date/KM 8097/Total elevation gain 48144 meters

 If I’m to believe the forecast, after today is rains for the next three days. Today its clear and cool, a good day for a ride! I made coffee, downed a couple of bran muffins, a tin of fruit cocktail and a banana. Prepped, then suited up for the final ride! It was an arm/leg sleeve morning. The hills of St John’s would soon have them off.
I clipped on my rear panniers, threw my leg over the bike, brought up the left peddle and slipped my foot in. I paused just before pushing off, I thought back to that early May afternoon. We were nearing port, Horseshoe Bay, the Mainland of British Columbia. Cool air rushed in as the ferry doors opened, I looked out, the Coastal Mountains were obscured in fog, it was overcast and drizzling. I felt nervous and excited all at the same time. I was the county kid, a greenhorn and, “Canada was calling me”.
  I refocus to present day, push down on the peddle and jump on, I was now a seasoned pro. I’d answered her call, I was off to Cape Spear, Canada’s most Easterly point and journey’s end. I smiled at the thought!

Cape Spear-Canada's most Easterly Point
"The Journey's Just Begun" 

Cape Spear, Newfoundland

Cape Spear, Newfoundland

The Atlantic Provinces Review

 As with many parts of Canada I would have liked to of spent more time. This of course was true of the Atlantic Provinces. The Confederation Trail on PEI was a definite highlight. This was the longest uninterrupted dedicated cycling path I rode on the entire tour. Grass covered with a single bared dirt strip either side the width of a car tire. You’ll experience PEI from a very different perspective, peaceful, shaded and uninterrupted by the passing of cars. I spent the first day in its entirety on trail with the exception of a brief grocery run. The second day brought me into Montague where the trail terminated. My time in Nova Scotia was brief and I’ll say the route was not pleasant, Hwy 104 was busy with Monday’s Labour Day traffic. It was the complete opposite of the previous days ride on PEI.
 In Antigonish I was met with heavy rains and a pending hurricane. Busing my way through to North Sydney was disappointing, some decisions aren’t easy, although necessary. 
 Newfoundland, with what little I saw it was unique, very different from the rest of Canada. In terms of weather it felt that it could be very unforgiving. The winds blew hard with little to no relief on the open landscape. It’s shorelines are rugged, exposed to the open Atlantic. St Johns, don’t underestimate its hills, there are plenty of them and they’re steep. It’s harbor, likely one of the most protected, can be seen from Signal Hill. The views of the city are also spectacular! The ships are unique, built to withstand the Atlantic seas, these are the brutes that service the oil rigs, their impressive. The Terry Fox Memorial, emotional without question. It should be situated in a more prominent location within the downtown of St Johns.

Part Two-Arm of Gold Campground to St Johns

Argentia, Newfoundland

Remnants from the abandoned Military Outpost
Argentia, Newfoundland

Newfoundland

Part One-Arm of Gold Campground to St Johns

Sept 11th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Sept 12th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground to Sunset RV Park, Argentia via Marine Atlantic Ferry

  This morning I woke to overcast skies, no rain yet, it was coming. I made breakfast in the barn then showered. It felt good to break camp once again. I took my time, I was well ahead of it, there was no rush.
  Once in North Sydney I did a quick tour of the marina, a halibut boat was unloading its catch. One last look at the fish boats then off to grab some lunch at Subway, ate one there and wrapped a traveler for tonight’s supper. Marine Atlantic Terminal was the next stop. The passed quickly and the call for boarding rang out over the loud speaker. I threw on my rain gear, swapped out my street shoes for clogs then peddled to the front of the line, it was raining pretty good. The signal to board was quick, thankfully so. I stowed the bike, with sleeping bag etc under arm I headed for the eighth floor. The seats reclined, somewhat like on an airplane. It was quiet, we were at the end of season. There a few fellow passengers in the room, all on the same page. None of us were willing to spend the $200 for a berth. I crashed out in the chair, then moved for the floor instead, it reminded me of the tent, I felt more at home. Not a bad sleep considering I had no Thermarest. I had read on the website they weren't allowed, or at least they didn’t want people crashing on the floor, no one bothered me.
  The sixteen hour journey passed surprisingly fast. I ate a great breakfast on board, should have been for the $21.00, ouch! Argentia was foggy, no rain at the moment but noticeably cooler. Not the best introduction to my eleventh Province! I stayed to plan riding a short distance to the Sunset RV Park, I pitched and setup. It had kind-of an industrial vibe, trailers lined up on gravel pads. An oil rig was being built near the ferry slip, the park was home to all the workers. Lorn, the camp attendant offered to take me into Placentia for groceries. When I returned I cooked and ate lunch in the camp kitchen, went for a short walk, showered, then the rains came. Tomorrow was suppose to be a better weather day, I wanted to ride.

Sept 13th, 2019/Sunset RV Park to Butter Pot Prov Park

Day's total/KM 97.7/elevation gain 911 meters
Total to date/KM 8012.9/Total elevation gain 46910 meters 

I've just passed the 8000 Kilometer mark!
  A later than usual start, I was waiting for the rains to abate. I was finally under way at around 9:30, and soon greeted by my old friend “head winds”, they were strong and persistent. I followed Hwy 100, it was well shouldered and in good condition. At the Junction I swung East along the TC. The Subway sign drew me in and I stopped for lunch. Lorn mentioned a highway closure, the server at Subway filled me in on the details. It was 1:30 PM when I pulled away from Subway. My initial plan was another 20 or so kilometers, the closure pushed me on, I had another 52kilometers to crank out before days end. The TC is divided, it had a good shoulder. 30 plus kilometers out from Subway I rode thru the closure point, I was well within time. They were updating a culvert, the detour by bike was not suppose to be a fun one. It was worth the extra effort avoiding it. I arrived at Butter Pot around 5 PM. They were calling for frost, it was already cooling down and so was I. 
  Camping was free, initially Paul, whom I’d met on the Argentia Boat unannounced passed me on the way in by car. He explained my story of cycling across the country to the park attendant and wanted to pre-pay my site. The attendant wasn't disagreed and insisted he pay instead.

Sept 14th, 2019/Butter Pot Prov Park to Pippy Park Campground

Day's total/KM 45.1/elevation gain 434 meters
Total to date/KM 8058/Total elevation gain 47344 meters

 Clear skies this morning and a little nippy, there was frost on the ground! It was a mini marathon just to get to the washrooms that had hot water at the campground and mostly uphill. I did dishes etc then back to camp to pack. A female moose and her young came crashing out of the bush in front of me on the way back. They were soon down the road then blazing their own trail. The TC was good all the way thru into St Johns. At Pippy Park Campground I chose to pitch in the tent field, it was a little cheaper and the slopped field was included for free. This was home now till the 15th, my last pitch.

Part Two-Arm of Gold Campground

Wind were now at 103 kilometers per hour!

Before Hurricane Dorian

After Hurricane Dorian

Part One-Arm of Gold Campground

Sept 6th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  I rode back into town for more groceries and lunch. I also dropped into the Marine Atlantic Ferry Terminal. Sunday’s sailing has been cancelled and all those that were booked on it are moved to Wednesday’s sailing, they also said they are not taking any bookings. There are at times perks when your on a bicycle, they called the reservation office and I was allowed to purchase my ticket for the Wednesday sailing. This will still allow for plenty of time to get to St Johns, deal with business and see some of the sights. I seam sealed the tent this afternoon, seem a little late for that. It was a blue sky day today and warm, that would soon change.

Sept 7th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  Today’s mission was to repair my Thermorest, funny how the simple things become entertaining. One of the buildings has a Jacuzzi, it's perfect for finding the leak. I made the repair, all was good, it was holding air until I sat on it. The glued pillowed perforations are giving away, when they do it develops leaks. I now have two more spots that are leaking. I bought it new for the trip and they’re not cheap, it's the four season model. Back to MEC on that one!
  The winds started to pick up early this morning, Hurricane Dorian was on route. By 3 PM the wind gusts of 85 kilometers per hour were being recorded on the weather app. I've re-located, I’m somewhat tucked under a gazebo out here in the field-I feel like a Hermit Crab that needs a bigger shell. I secured the tent as best I could, I used all the four tie outs. At this point the winds were coming from behind the gazebo which provided shelter, that would change.
  I went to bed around 10 PM, there were bands of rain passing through, winds at the moment were the bigger issue. The weather app was recording 100 kilometer plus gusts, it was getting noisy out there. I woke at around 1 AM, the winds had shifted direction as the storm moved through, they were now blowing directly on me with nothing to shelter. It was difficult to sleep with all the racket. The tent was bouncing about pretty good. I could feel the floor shifting under the Thermarest. I thought of Dorothy In the Wizard of Oz, she was in a house and hers flew, I was hoping mine wouldn’t.
At around 3 AM I heard a big “Pop” the tent lit up blue, it was quickly followed by the sound of current arcing.  Then another “Pop” and a flash of blue light, again the unmistakable sound of current shorting to ground. I was aware of the Hydro Lines, not above but a short distance away from the tent. I heard no trees breaking so I assumed the lines shorted against a still standing tree, I stayed put. The winds continued through the night and morning. Lots of debris on the ground, broken tree limbs, I could now clearly see the road and houses, my hedge was flattened and the trees got a haircut. The power was out, I assume last nights light show was the culprit. The winds continued for a better part of the day, we received little rain.

Sept 8th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

I stayed in the tent for most of the day, it was a long one. The wind slowly abated as the day went on. There’s a trailer on the property that serves up burgers, fries etc. It was up and running under generator power, I was in. I stealthed back to the tent with a big bag of fries, a cheese burger with real bacon, that was the highlight of the day.

Sept 9th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

  I woke this morning to blue skies and calm winds. There was a couple of gals a few gazebo over that came in last night. They greeted me with a fresh cup of brewed coffee, how nice was that. We chatted while they packed for the boat to Argentia. They were on a two week holiday from Quebec. Their travel plans were also disrupted by the past storm.
I made a second cup once the girls were gone and you’ll never guess, oatmeal for breakfast! Yum! Yum!
I did a bit of house keeping, hauled everything out of the tent, cleaned the leaves and debris up from the tent floor, aired out the sleeping bag, hung a new air freshener up. Then I rode into town for lunch and a stop in at Canadian Tire, picked up a repair kit for my Thermarest. Time I got back the power was back on, I recharged all my devices, showered etc then made supper.

Sept 10th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Today was uneventful, I did laundry, showered and puttered about. I went for a walk around the campground, there’s an old rail bed over the hill that I walked along, then looped back to home base. I jumped on the bike and rode to Tim Horton's for coffee in the afternoon. I was getting bored!

Part Three-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Arm of Gold Campground, North Sydney

North Sydney

Hurricane Dorian Projected Path (I'm under the Blue Dot)

Part Two-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Sept 4th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

 Not having to get up and ride this morning I had a go at trying to sleep in. I woke at 7 AM to an overcast sky. I made breakfast then got ready to cycle into town, about 14 kilometer return trip. I ate lunch at Subway, had some banking to do, then groceries.
  I re-evaluated the weather, Hurricane Dorian, which will get downgraded to a tropical storm is suppose to arrive late Friday, heavy rains and winds are forecasted for Friday evening, Saturday and into Sunday morning. I stocked up on groceries, not wanting to bike into town in the middle of it. I lazed around this afternoon, showered and sorted a few things out. 
 The weather app is now beginning to issue warnings for Dorian. Given the uncertainty of how this storm will impact I’ve opted to take the boat from North Sydney to Argentia. The one scenario which would take me into Port aux Basque gives me little or not enough time to cross Newfoundland. Where as this one gives me too much time. It will however allow me to spend time in St Johns, sightseeing and getting organized to fly back home. It’s 135 kilometers from Argentia to St Johns, I’ll likely split that into two days.

Sept 5th, 2019/Arm of Gold Campground

Not an early wake up this morning, no need. This not having to ride is out of the norm. I’ve gotten so use to waking up, prepping, then riding. I’m anxious to get going once again-this seems tougher than riding, I miss being on the road.

Confederation Trail, PEI

Confederation Trail, PEI

Part One-South Cove Camping and Golf to Arm of Gold

Aug 30th, 2019/South Cove Camping and Golf to Yogi Bears Park

Day's total/KM 66/elevation gain 424 meters
Total to date/KM 7639/Total elevation gain 44234 meters

The skies looked promising this morning, still some dark patches. The rains have stopped for some time now, it looks like the storm was clearing. It was off to the laundry room to dry the sleeping bag, liner and a few other bits. As expected the tent leaked through the night, lucky for me the storm brought in warm air, I was wet but not cold. I made breakfast, packed up, I followed the coastal road which offered brief glimpses of the ocean. At first I wasn’t sure what I was looking at, it was the Confederation Bridge, that thing is huge. When I arrived I rode past the shuttle pick-up area to take some pics of the bridge. When I returned the shuttle was there waiting, l loaded the bike and gear and we were off, perfect timing. I grabbed some lunch in PEI then off to the campground.

Aug 31st, 2019/Yogi Bear Park to Camping and RV Park Rooms

Day's total/KM 76.1/elevation gain 470 meters
Total to date/KM 7715.1/Total elevation gain 44704 meters

 The campground wasn't far from the Confederation Bridge. I took a bit of a walk along the Confederations Trail, it was just steps from where I was pitched. I rode it thru and into Charlottetown where I briefly hopped off to grab some groceries for dinner then back on for the last 30 kilometers to the campground. The trail is in great condition, all hard packed gravel, no motorized vehicles allowed, bikes and walkers only. Parts of the trail are fast while some areas seemed slow, the heavy rains from this past storm may have softened the soil. The trail works it’s way through the back of farmlands has easy access to food etc in the small towns it passes near. Signage on the trail directs to accommodations etc. It was a nice way to experience PEI, this was the longest dedicated bike trail I’ve ridden. I thought I might see other cycle tourists, I only saw a handful of bikes and they weren't touring. The campground was private, just off the trail. A big open field with picnic tables, a cook area which I used, showers etc for $30,  it was a great place.

Sept 1st, 2019/Camping and RV Park Rooms to Northumberland Provincial Park

Day's total/KM 91.1/elevation gain 473 meters
Total to date/KM 7806.2/Total elevation gain 45177 meters

 I continued on the Confederation Trail into Montague where the trail terminates, I was sorry to leave it for the busy roads that took me into Northumberland. There was a noticeable difference in speed once I was back on solid pavement, making better time. I groceried up in Montague, ate some lunch then rode the last 30 kilometers. A bit hilly, I got spoiled the past day and a half on the rail bed. The campground overlooks the Northumberland Strait with nice sandy beaches, I took a walk in the evening. It would always seem that beach walks get the mind thinking. There haven't been many times during this trip that I've looked to far down the road, I generally stay in the now, one day at a time. I was nearing the end, soon I'd be in Newfoundland, I had mixed feelings.

Sept 2nd, 2019/Northumberland Provincial Park to Whidden Park Campgrounds

Day's total/KM 109/elevation gain 822 meters
Total to date/KM 7915.2Total elevation gain 45999 meters

 My plan was to catch the 9:30 AM ferry, as usual I woke early, passed on breakfast, packed up and covered the 4 kilometers to the terminal in short order. I had time for coffee and a sweet bun before boarding the 8:00 AM boat. Once on board with the bike stowed it was upstairs for some more breakfast. The crossing is just a little over an hour, $20.00 to cross and no fees for the shuttle across the Confederation Bridge, it was a good deal. From the ferry terminal on Nova Scotia, my ninth Provence! I followed the Three Brooks Road rounding the point avoiding the the 106. It was short lived, my approach to the 106 was a little dodgy. I ended up on an overpass with the highway below and no road access. It was down the embankment, then skirted along a marsh and onto the highway. I rode thru to Hwy 104, it took me into Antigonish. The shoulder was great on the 104 until it wasn't, it disappeared when the highway went to double lane. In all my travels thus far there’s typically a shoulder up the hills, here there wasn't. It was the Monday on the close of the Labour day weekend, lots of traffic. Can’t say it was a fun ride, quiet the contrast from riding the Confederation Trail the day before. The campground was situated in town, I opted to eat supper out, all the grocery stores were closed. Shoppers Drug Mart would have been a good choice which I checked out the day after, they have a reasonable selection of food. The rains were back forcing me to take cover inside the tent where I stayed the rest of the evening.

Sept 3rd, 2019/Whidden Park Campground to North Sydney

187 Kilometers by bus!

 My intent was to cycle two more days to North Sydney then take the ferry to Port Aux Basques. This morning I woke to strong winds and rain, the long range forecast called for more. I would soon be running into time issues, waiting out the weather wasn’t an option. Riding in the rain is one thing, in traffic is another particularly along a busy highway, it wasn’t going to happen.
 Tough decision, I’ve decided to bus myself and bike up to North Sydney and re-evaluate the weather from there. From the comfort of the bus I passed thru my tenth Province. The Arm of Gold Campground is about 7 kilometers from the bus drop. I arrived at 9:40 PM in North Sydney. I geared up, headlamp on and two safety flashers for the rear panniers. I soon arrived at the campground, they were expecting me. I was directed to the site, I setup, made some dinner and off to bed by 11:30 PM, it was a long day.

Part Three-Aube Adventure to South Cove Camping and Golf

Camping Aux Flots

Aboujagane River near, Robichaud

Shediac

Part Two-Aube Adventure to South Cove Camping and Golf

Aug 25th, 2019/Bathurst Wildlife Camping to Camping Pokemouche

Day's total/KM 80/elevation gain 546 meters
Total to date/KM 7326.2/Total elevation gain 42553 meters

It was cold and clear this morning, I wore my riding jacket for the first time in awhile. I let Google take me thru Bathurst, it routed me along the 134 then Bridge Street. I was soon dropped onto a rail-bed which I wasn’t aware of in my initial mapping. The first few kilometers were great, on/off options were limited, I needed to commit to the next section. The next exit point was several kilometers away and the trail had gotten worse, I hopped off and onto Hwy 11. This rail bed goes on for a good 100 kilometers according to the signage. ATV’s and the four wheel buggy’s I was told are not allowed on the trails within the city limits, beyond that it’s a free frawl. Too bad the trail tends to get beat up, the setup I’m on is not suited for it. I’ll have to return with a fat bike one day!

Aug 26th, 2019/Camping Pokemouche to Enclosure Campground

Day's total/KM 108.3/elevation gain 510 meters
Total to date/KM 7434.5/Total elevation gain 43063 meters

I followed highway 11 a better part of the day. So far the roads in New Brunswick have been pretty good, some sections do have minimal shoulder. Within each province resides their worst drivers, New Brunswick seems to have its share. Gotta say at times I’m a little miffed as to how they get a drivers license, or at least I assuming the have one. I groceries up in Miramichi then onto the campground. Decent place, a little run down but I always feel grateful to arrive and have a place to stay. Despite being told the campsite was grassy, which I prefer, it was dirt. A quick call to headquarters and she was not apposed to my pitching in the overflow area which was all lawn and next to showers and the washrooms, bonus.

Aug 27th, 2019/Enclosure Campground to South Cove Camping and Golf

Day's total/KM 138.5/elevation gain 747 meters
Total to date/KM 7573/Total elevation gain 43810 meters
 
I clocked some good kilometers today,  some elevation, the winds were light. Highway 11 way busy, I had a good wide shoulder in places to distance myself from traffic. At times the shoulder played peek-a-boo, not fun but admittedly I’ve become somewhat numb and realize that there are some motorists that just don’t have the brains to allow safe passing distances. I planned a rest day for tomorrow, so getting in late was not an issue. The town of Shediac has all the comforts, grocery, beer and my fav the Chinese Restaurant. I pitched in the field along with only two other tents, the season is drawing to a close.

Aug 28th, 2019/Rest Day/South Cove Camping and Golf

 I was just a walk away from Tim Horton's, I grabbed a coffee and muffin then back to the tent. I poked around for a bit, did laundry, down loaded a whack of Pod Casts, they had good Wi-Fi here. Around noon I mounted my trusty Surly and rode into town. A cyclone was on route it was to hit the Maritime s tomorrow. I decided to hold up till it passed, bought groceries accordingly with plans to leave the following day. I stopped in for Chinese on the way back, it wasn’t bad and it wasn’t great, it also wasn’t oatmeal. The rest of the day I just lazed around after all it was a rest day.

Aug 29th, 2019/Rest Day/South Cove Camping and Golf

I looked out at around 7:15, the skies were overcast. Some sorta weird cloud formations off in the distance, must be the beginnings of Cyclone Erin. They’d soon be overhead. It all sounds a little dramatic, Cyclone Erin, how bad can it be! It was Timmy’s for breakfast then a walk to the clubhouse to settle up for my unpaid night. I got talking to the attendant they suggested I stay under the gazebo and wait out the storm. It would have been ideal except it started to rain, moving was out of the question. One fellow had also offered I stay in his vacant trailer, it was too late for that as well. Bands of rain continued for the day, at times heavy. It was going to be a tent day!

Part One-Aube Adventure to South Cove Camping and Golf

19th, Aug, 2019/Aube Adventure to Camping Village

Day's total/KM 99.4/elevation gain 1148 meters
Total to date/KM 6896.8/Total elevation gain 39351 meters

It was a good push on gravel to exit the campground. I was on the 132 a little after 8 AM under blue skies. The winds were light, by mid morning they had ramped up, it was a given I would eventually be heading into them as I swung around the Caspe'. I stopped at 11:30 for lunch then pushed on against the wind. The meter gain of 1148, plus wind was enough to test the legs and body. I made a quick stop at Canadian Tire for stove fuel. In the complex was a multi sports store, I picked up a spare chain for the bike. I would have cut the day short but food options were no where to be found. Once the brain decides it’s time to quit the body soon follows, it takes a bit to turn that around and get the legs and body back. The day ain’t over till it’s over, a series of hills prior to the town of Percé were mentioned by several riders I met. They were tough and least welcomed at days end, I just had to dig a little deeper. It was a decent down, finally, then a gentle up and around the corner was the heart of Perce'. I'd wondered through the day where everyone was, I found them, this place was nuts! Like a Minnie Banff. I never thought I’d get camping but I did, there are lots of campgrounds in the area, this one was in town and the first one I checked out, bonus.

Aug 20th, 2019/Camping Village to Camping des e’toiles
Day's total/KM 98.2/elevation gain 922 meters
Total to date/KM 6995/Total elevation gain 40273 meters

It rained off and on all night, by morning I woke to clear blue skies once again. The winds blew pretty good early on and continued to increase through the day. There were hills, it just depends how they're served up, less grade but long, I don't mind these as much. The winds were the big game changer, I peddled against them from start to finish, they were strong, with gusts that almost stopped me dead. I arrived at the campground around 5:30. A bit of a rush to setup, shower, laundry and make dinner, it was a long tiring day. My campsite was next to all the essentials which makes for a quicker job and way less hassle.

Aug 21st, 2019/Camping des e’toiles to Camping Aux Flotes

Day's total/KM 99/elevation gain 677 meters
Total to date/KM 7094/Total elevation gain 40950 meters

I just joined the 7000 kilometer club!
The winds were much lighter this morning but forecasted to increase to 15 kilometers this afternoon. The elevation gains weren’t big today, I was able to make some good time and not overwork the legs. The campground was more less a trailer court, I was offered to pitch on a lot that occupied a trailer It was private overlooking the estuary. Lounge chairs, a covered porch, I had it all. The only draw back was no grocery stores or restaurants nearby, I was low on food.

Aug 22nd, 2019/Rest Day/Camping Aux Flots

This place was too nice to skip past so I’ll stay on another day. there was a Service Station several kilometers down the road, not much there. A restaurant a little further back was closed, lack of help. I picked up some smoked salmon, you'd think I was buying gold, pricey. For lunch and dinner I had to dig deep into the goody bag, pickings were slim, the goodie bag wasn’t so deep! I booked my flight home today! Sept 24th I depart St Johns for Victoria. I’ve given myself a generous amount of time to wrap this up.

Aug 23rd, 2019/Camping Aux Flots to Blue Heron Camping

Day's total/KM 75.5/elevation gain 601 meters
Total to date/KM 7169.5/Total elevation gain 41551 meters

It rained off and on thru the night, it let up by morning and was beginning to clear. I was still riding into the winds and received some relief when I crossed at Pointe-a-la-Croix into New Brunswick, my seventh province. The change in direction brought some relief from the winds. I ate lunch in Campbellton then followed 134 along the coast to Dalhousie for groceries. It was a descent up to exit town then onward to the campground.
I lost one hour today as well, I’m now on Atlantic Daylight Time.

Aug 24th, 2019/Blue Heron Campground to Bathurst Wildlife Camping

Day's total/KM 76.7/elevation gain 456 meters
Total to date/KM 7246.2/Total elevation gain 42007 meters

My alarm was set for 6 AM, my usual time. With yesterday's time change it was still dark, I re-set for 6:30. I followed the coastal road, 134 once again under descent skies. 30 kilometers in I spotted a church sale, they must have food. I rolled out with three dogs and a Pepsi a smile on my face and a full belly.

Quebec Review-Je vous salue!

  I knew you were going to be different and you were and in so many ways. 
Quebec’s love for the bicycle was apparent when I first entered Hull, it continued on thru. The dedicated trail system “La Route Verte”. Road side signage reminding motorists of the safe passing distances between vehicle and bike, they were frequent, big and bold, impossible to miss. “You mean they care about cyclists I thought!”. 
 The rides and scenery were memorable, beautiful. The La Route Verte, in English means “The Green Road”, it wound it’s way through many small coastal communities. The unique architecture, the pride people took in looking after their homes was apparent. It introduced me to the St Lawrence, gateway to the Atlantic, I couldn’t help but feel moved. Reaching the Saint Lawrence was another milestone. I had to clear the lump in my throat when I first saw it.This was my first look at ocean since leaving coastal British Columbia, it represented a lot of ground covered.
 The lead up to Quebec City, streets lined with multi million dollar mansions, some new, some heritage homes. The Old City is worth a visit, our hostel was well situated affording us to walk, visit the tourist spots, sample some local foods and drink some beers.
 On the North side of the Gaspé I had tail winds that pushed me along, they carried the scent of the sea reminding me of home. The peddles were light and effortless as I sailed along passing old churches perched by the sea, stone heritage homes, beaches, the sound of gulls, they're were some great days. Not to get too complacent I had tough ones too.Three consecutive days rounding the Gaspé, I’ll not soon forget. The hills were challenging but it ain’t over till it’s over. The next two days I rode West and into the winds that pushed from behind  the day before. I looked back at each days end with a sense of accomplishment, I did it, I couldn’t help but smile. It’s the difficult, the struggle that makes the good even better, they’re the sweet times that push you forward.
 I stood and looked out from the farthest point on the Gaspé, Shiphead Point, it was another “pinch me moment”. 
 More prevalent on the north side of the Gaspé were small road side eateries, Poutine, burgers and the soft ice cream were exceptional, I stopped in often. 
 Camping in Quebec was reasonably priced. I pitched in some memorable places along the Gaspé, Camping Chalet Bel Air, I fell asleep to the sound of waves crashing. I should mention the beautiful sunset that evening as well. Aube Aventure, this place was laid back, peaceful, uncrowned, long walks along boulder beach. I would recommend staying there, a great location if your wanting to access Forillon National Park.
 The people, I reconnected with Taro just outside of Montreal. I enjoyed my rides with him and his company, I was sorry to see that end. I don’t speak French, there is however many bilingual people in Quebec. I had no issues, they were as friendly and inquisitive as any thus far. 
 A broken chain! No repair shops, no spare chain, no tools to repair the existing chain even if temporary. I was once again saved by the incredible kindness of others, "Thankyou!".
I clocked about 1600 kilometers to cross the province, climbed 10,358 meters and descended the same, spending 20 days in Quebec. I was truly one of the best provinces thus far!

Je vous remercie Quebec! 

and now the Maritimes...and the question finally gets answered.

Part Four-Camping Au Bonnet Rouge to Aube Aventure

Aube Aventure, Caspe'

Caspe'

Forillon National Park, Caspe'

Part Three-Camping Au Bonnet Rouge to Aube Aventure

Camping Chalet Bel-Air, Gaspe'

Shiphead, Forillon National Park

Shiphead, Forillon National Park

Part Two-Camping Au Bonnet Rouge to Aube Aventure

Aug 14th, 2019/Camping du Rivage to Camping Chalet Bel-Air

Day's total/KM 94.4/elevation gain 1396 meters
Total to date/KM 6651.1/Total elevation gain 35629 meters

Another great ride today, I was on the road by 7:45 and followed the side roads thru town till I was back on the 132. By mid morning the winds had picked up, blowing from the West once again. The sun was out and it was another beautiful day, I’ve been lucky as well with the weather these past few days. The campground was on a hillside overlooking the St Lawrence. There are more less three levels, I was put on the middle level. I pitched between a truck camper and a mobile home, not the best. I hadn’t noticed the spots down by the beach. The owner had no problem with the move so I packed up and re-pitched just feet from the the beach. It was real windy, inside the tent was nice and calm. This was one of the nicest places I’ve camped. This evening sunset was spectacular! I asleep to the sounds of waves crashing onto the beach.

Aug 15th, 2019/Camping Chalet Bel-Air to Griffon Adventure Hostel

Day's total/KM 101.1/elevation gain 1851 meters
Total to date/KM 6752.2/Total elevation gain 37480 meters

Today was going to be a tough one! This section offered the greatest gain in elevation. I had barely enough time to warm up and I was into the first of several big climbs, this one being the longest. I managed to peddle my way up despite the bikes taller than I would like gearing, you can alway's use a lower granny gear. There were some good descents as well, dropping down onto the small coastal towns which offered brief reprieve then it was back to climbing, this went on the entire day. The winds were once again at my back which if anything physiologically helped but provided no assist. I doubled back a bit for groceries about 10 kilometers from the campground. On arrival I was greeted with a sign, “campground full”. There’s only one choice, move on. It was getting late when I pulled into the hostel, overflow was all they had left. It was more less a dirt and gravel parking lot which was back up towards the entrance. This put me 400 meters away from the showers and water which were down a dirt road. I was grateful to have a place to pitch. I set up then rode the bike down to shower, filled the water bladder and back to camp for some supper. I ended the evening back at the bar for a pint. I ran into the two gals that beat me out of the Oceanside campsite a ways back.

Aug 16th, 2019/Griffon Adventure Hostel to Aube Aventure

Day's total/KM 17.4/elevation gain 263 meters
Total to date/KM 6769.6/Total elevation gain 37743 meters

An intended short ride today and welcomed, the legs were still tired from yesterday’s effort. I’ll likely stay here for a few days and explore Forillon National Park, I’m well situated just outside the park entrance.

Aug 17th, 2019/ Aube Aventure to Shiphead, Forillon National Park

Day's total/KM 27.8/elevation gain 460 meters
Total to date/KM 6797.4/Total elevation gain 38203 meters

In the morning I rode to Shiphead, it’s the farthest land point on the Caspe'. The last 3 kilometers are on gravel, hikers and bikers only. There’s a pretty descent uphill, the best line up is a single track, of course why not test the already tired legs. I took one stop on the way up, it was exhausting. Once you get to the lighthouse you can hike another 400 meters to a platform overlooking the ocean, as well a view of the cliffs.
 I added another day to my stay here and will leave Monday morning. This place has a great vibe, my site overlooks the bay below and I have access to the beach, no sand, just a lot of big boulders. That prompted another trip for groceries. I rode back to eat lunch then walked the beach this afternoon.

Aug 18th, 2019/Rest Day/Aube Aventure

I did my best to sleep in but the internal alarm clock had me up at just before 6. I fell back to sleep several more times and finally peeked out at 7:30. It’s overcast today, no rain as yet and the winds are calm. I ate some breakfast then organized and cleaned for the ride tomorrow. Adjusted the brakes, tire pressures, lowered the bars a bit more and re-dressed my Brooks Leather saddle. Cooked lunch, “that meant heating up a can of chili”. Then went for a walk on the boulder beach, by this time the sun was out, it was another great day.

Part One-Camping Au Bonnet Rouge to Aube Aventure

Aug 9th, 2019/Camping Au Bonnet Rouge to Park of the Pointe

Day's total/KM 97/elevation gain 238 meters
Total to date/KM 6141.9/Total elevation gain 32633 meters

 Today marks my third month of touring!
  A much cooler ride today with highs of around 22 Celsius it's nice to see a shift to cooler temperatures. The winds were Southwest often giving us a nice little push. We followed Hwy 132 for 15 or so kilometers then I spotted the La Route Verte 1. Taro tends to play past the cycling paths, typically they do take longer and often are more hilly but the rewards are well worth the effort. The path was hard packed gravel and brought us alongside the Saint Lawrence. Tall wind swept grasses bordered the trail, meadows of wild flowers and purple fire-weed. The views of the Saint Lawrence were spectacular as well the farmlands and small towns. There were a few decent little climbs today but for the most part it was mainly flat, we made good time. Despite having agreed to take it easy we both seem to fall into a quicker pace than usual. It was a tiring but memorable days ride. We pitched, setup and showered, then were both chased back to our tents, it rained thru dinner. I cooked and ate in the tent. It eventually let up and we were able to share our last beer together at days end. Taro was off to PEI via the 185 and I was continuing on to ride around the Caspe'.

Aug 10th, 2019/Park of the Pointe to Camping Municipal de Saint Fabien

Day's total/KM 78/elevation gain 338 meters
Total to date/KM 6348.9/Total elevation gain 32971 meters

 I said my goodbyes to Taro, I'll miss riding with him, we had many memorable times together. Hwy 132 was quiet, I saw signage for the Le Route Verte, I wanted to make good time so I continued along the 132. Hwy 20 eventually terminates, it moves a lot of traffic, much of it finds Hwy 132 and it quickly becomes busy. I spotted the La Route Verte, it dropped down into the valley. I thought like yesterday it would follow the shoreline, it didn’t. Once down and committed I was quickly routed back up. It took me up a series of hills, I had to push up and a lot of peddling in the granny gear. I made my way back onto the 132 having lost considerable time. I took the La Route Verte one more time, it was a short, flat bit that didn't route me too far from the main highway. I opted for a slightly shorter day today, the sun returned and I wanted to dry everything out. I grabbed groceries not far from the campground, checked in and set up. The pitch was on wooden platforms, perfect for drying all my gear away from the dirt. I hand washed some cloths, showered then ate dinner. The rain was back at around 6:30 and came down pretty good.

Aug 11th, 2019/Camping Municipal de Saint Fabien to Camping Parc Sirois Whale

Day's total/KM 128/elevation gain 595 meters
Total to date/KM 6476.9/Total elevation gain 33435 meters

 I set the alarm for 6 AM, I awoke to the sound of rain. I decided to go back to sleep, at 7:15 I looked out to an overcast sky and still drizzling. I wanted to put on some kilometers today and the forecast was calling for clearing around noon. I made coffee, cooked some oatmeal then set about packing up. I was on the road by 9 AM. I hoped on the La Route Verte at times but covered most of the section on Hwy 132. Ramouski was much bigger than I thought, there was a nice well paved dedicated bike route that fronted the town following the shoreline of the Saint Lawrence. I spotted a Subway once I'd cleared the busier parts, grabbed a sub for the road. The sun finally did come out around noon but there was a noticeable change in temperature, it was a lot cooler. A Westerly was blowing off the Saint Lawrence, one of the best tail winds I’ve had. Groceries were about 4k past the campground, the return trip was nasty, I was now straight into the winds. I pitched on grass well in back for a little privacy. Cooked in the tent, it was too windy outside.

Aug 12th, 2019/Camping Parc Sirois Whale to Camping du Rivage

Day's total/KM 91.8/elevation gain 798 meters
Total to date/KM 6556.7/Total elevation gain 34233 meters

 It rained thru the night off and on but I woke to a dry tent, it’s always nice to pack up when things are dry. The skies were overcast, when I hit the road the skies were clearing and it was shaping up to be a nice day. I passed on making breakfast, so the first stop was Tim Horton's. Then I spotted a larger grocery store, pulled in and picked up a few things for tonight’s dinner. A few ups for today, nothing drastic. I stayed for the most part on the 132 and jumped on La Route Verte a few times, there weren’t a lot of options today. The winds were at my back pushing me along making for good time. I stopped for lunch which took much longer than expected, slow service. I rode out past the campground without checking in to grab some beer. It was starting to get a little late, on return the campground was full. I was forced to backtrack another few kilometers West. A couple of gals that were also turned away beat me and were given ocean front camping, they had a car. It worked out well, I pitched across the road, a little more private and had access to the beach.

Aug 13th, 2019/Rest Day/Camping du Rivage

I walked the beach in the morning, afternoon and evening. You could walk in either direction, sandy for the most part and real windy. My bike was doing a lot of ghost shifting the other day and I could at times feel something resonating thru the crank, a rough spot in the drive train. The symptoms I felt were the beginnings, the end result was of a broken chain. Just as I came back from shopping, on the grass in front of my campsite it broke, a bit of luck there. The next dilemma was the nearest bike shop in Ramouski was 25 plus kilometers away. I gave them a call, in turn he gave me the number to this fellow that maintains a fleet of rental bikes near where I was. I gave him a call, he had a chain, showed up at the campground jut minutes after I hung-up. I was just a little dumb struck on how all that unfolded. I was again ready to ride tomorrow morning.

Part Four-Wesley Clover Campground to Camping Au Bonnet Rouge

Quebec City

Quebec City

Roadside Diner, Quebec

Part Three-Wesley Clover Campground to Camping Au Bonnet Rouge

Oka, Quebec

Quebec City

Quebec City